pickme
672 posts
Joined: 08/09/2004 23:10:14
Location: Chippenham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Voltage regulators ahoy!
Yep the above is probably right. I had the same problem with a massively over heating pickup that turned out to be caused by taking a direct 12v feed into the guage before earthing it out through the sensor (thats how it works FWIW). Take a feed off the back of the speedo (is this a single centre speedo?) or where ever the fuel gauge gets its power and try that.
Posted: Feb 07, 2005 06:57 PM
taffy1967
1783 posts
Joined: 27/09/2006 18:58:07
Location: Rhondda-Cynon-Taff United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
FUEL GAUGE
I doubt it, the type fitted to the instruments is a dedicated voltage regulator.
Posted: Aug 07, 2007 03:37 PM
james
5 posts
Joined: 14/04/2011 18:08:06
Location: north somercotes United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
45Amp alternator (GXE2211)
if its a lucas one it should have a voltage regulator fastened to the end of it which can be changed
Posted: Jun 18, 2015 08:48 PM
a. mericanminifreak
183 posts
Joined: 02/11/2007 23:17:14
Location: rosbach v.d.hohe Germany
Inno fuel guage
Well i tried shorting the wires andnothing happend...i cant seem to figure out why its not working..i know on the old minis the big tacho had a voltage regulator maybe i neet o hook one of those up and see it it spikes the damn gauge...any other ideas..thanks
Posted: Jan 02, 2008 12:19 PM
JeffR
8 posts
Joined: 01/07/2008 18:02:28
Location: Honiton United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
3 Dial Dash Conversion
I am about to attempt to fit a post 1988 3 dial dash (without the separate voltage regulator) to a 1982 mini 1000, what problems will I encounter , and how do I get around them?
Posted: Oct 14, 2008 12:13 PM
Ash
21 posts
Joined: 14/12/2005 18:25:54
Location: Taunton United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Temp gauge wiring
Can someone advise me? I want to wire in a new Smiths water temp gauge to my 1987 Mini. Where should I take the live feed from? The circuit diagram that came with the gauge shows the voltage dropped to 10 volts, after passing through a voltage regulator. Is this the small grey cube that is bolted on to the left side as I look at the engine? Do I somehow need to take a feed from there? Sorry to be so ignorant.
Posted: Jan 19, 2010 02:06 PM
Jake Holmes
172 posts
Joined: 14/02/2009 21:39:11
Location: Walton on Thames United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
That sounds like the starter solenoid with the two large terminals; although i note yours is a 1987 model which should have a pre engaged starter with solenoid built in. (Perhaps you have an earlier engine?). The voltage regulator is at the back of the instrument binnacle and is a bit smaller.
Posted: Jan 19, 2010 10:53 PM
Ob
28 posts
Joined: 03/12/2004 21:54:05
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
voltage reg
Im not sure on the Mini, but on my landrover the + side of the dials comes from a voltage regulator, it this is not working properly the dials will display the wrong value (or appear not to work) but shorting to earth will make them move. Youd need to check the wiring diagram (in the haynes manual)
Posted: Feb 06, 2005 08:57 PM
voltage
Could be a faulty voltage regulator. If the temp sensor doesnt get a constant stable supply it will behave strangely. For instance, if you wire up a temp sensor to 12v off the fuse box it will go straight to red hot and stay there.
Posted: Nov 14, 2005 10:11 PM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Temp Gauge Over Reading
Hi Chandran,
My son's car is a Morris Mk2 as well and has the original Magnolia single unit dash. It does actually sound like a Voltage Regulator problem as it affects the temperature and fuel gauges. On the voltage regulator you should have:
a light green wire going to the fuel gauge.
a green wire bunch that feeds out to the heater switch, fuse point #4 on the protected side of the lower fuse (has white input feed) and the rear demister switch if fitted to your car.
The body of the speedo is earthed in common with the wiper motor, wiper switch, indicators and the earth feed at the regulator box (assuming dynamo type electrics but will be engine earth strap for alternator version)
I remember reading somewhere that the Voltage regulator is adjustable and is normally set to give the correct fuel tank reading. There should be a small hole in the back of the regulator that takes an electricians flat bladed screwdriver. (you might have to unbolt it to get to it) to set the fuel tank limit get a piece of wire and lift the float until it is fully raised - now adjust the regulator screw until the gauge says "F". This should also now bring your temperature gauge under control.
Let me know if you need a PDF of the wiring loom, although mine has been scribbled over as I have converted to negative earth and fitted an alternator. +ve or -ve didn't affect the VR on our car.
Hope that works for you.
Posted: Apr 23, 2013 11:44 AM
Patrick Campbell
13 posts
Joined: 24/10/2017 12:28:13
Location: Walton-on-Thames United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Fuel Gauge not working
Hi All.
The fuel gauge on my daughters 1988 Mini Designer is not working. I have removed the Green wire with Black tracer from the sender unit and with the engine running I have put a test light across from it to earth, the light does not come on. Looking at the wiring chart for this model the wire goes to the gauge and then onto the Voltage Regulator and appears to share the same track on the printed circuit board as the Temperature Gauge which is working. Any ideas as to why there is no power going to the sender.
Regards Paddy
Posted: May 13, 2018 05:08 PM
matty
10 posts
Joined: 03/05/2005 13:12:45
mini over heating
thanks for the reply what would be the best way to check if i do have a faulty voltage regulator/ temp sensor.
Posted: Nov 16, 2005 10:10 AM
Issigonis mini
24 posts
Joined: 28/10/2004 15:54:18
Location: Maidenhead United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Blowing coils
I would first check the battery, if it has been overcharging then it would probably have started to boil the battery dry. I know motorcycles fitted with dynamos do that when they are overcharging. If it is then the voltage regulator probably wants adjusting. Is the coil right for the type of ignition system used? I.e a 12v coil for a non ballast system? I seem to recall using a coil designed to run on a ballast sytem on the older 12v ignition will result in overheating of the coil followed by rapid failure.
Posted: Jul 14, 2005 11:45 AM
AdamG
4 posts
Joined: 08/12/2004 18:14:09
Location: Leeds United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
electrical problem, lights on - gauges way out
I thought the GTs did have a voltage regulator, certainly early twin clock dashes do have one which plugs into the back, later ones have them built into the gauages. Thats probably not what it is though, it wont affect the tacho, prevoius poster was right, check all the connections. Cheers, Adam
Posted: Sep 29, 2005 05:33 PM
RAYMOND HOLMES
3 posts
Joined: 07/06/2005 12:32:45
Location: LEEDS United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Electric Fuel Pump
I have an electronic fuel pump on my Positive earth 1959 Morris Mini Minor for reliability I recently installed a Smiths temperature gauge and the pump keeps stopping and not recharging unless I disconnect the temp gauge. With this in mind I have fitted a Bi-metal voltage regulator as fitted to post 1964 cars hoping this would resolve the problem but hasn't! I still have to disconnecte the gauge to get the fuel pump working. I know the easy answer would be not to have the gauge but I would like to resolve the problem anyone got any ideas.
Posted: Jul 30, 2013 03:17 PM
J. Clarke
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Correct Wiring Harness for 65 Aussie Deluxe
yeah sounds like that would be best bet u want one that will run all the electrics u have and if uv got cooper s fittins then it will be best. ur voltage regulator is it dynamo one, as early alternators have separate regulator/rectifyier. dont chuck bits away anyway put it on ebay if u dont want things, someone may need one to finish there restoration.
Posted: Jun 16, 2008 12:31 AM
Chandran
Joined: 17/09/2005 19:43:48
Location: Putrajaya Malaysia
Hi,
I hope you can help, my newly purchased Magnolia Smith Temp gauge is over reading and after troubleshooting everything I am lost of actions except to install a inline Resistor which I really hate to do... here is the scenario: 1) Smith Temp Gauge is connected to GTR104 Temp Sender (red insulator top) 2) Temp gauge is also connected to Voltage regulator on Smiths Magnolia Speedo 3) Earthing connected to known Good Source on Body 4) Radiator doesnt boil over even when filled with water but Temp reading is at H after 5 mins of running or Idle, slowly creeps to H within 5 mins. 5) When on road at Speed, needle slightly moves down from H 6) Thermostat fitted 85c and tested fine 7) Fitted Electric Fan with Temp Sensor 90c does not come on until like 1 hour of driving 8) Water pump tested Fine 9) Radiator pressure tested with new Cap 16psi, all fine 10) no overflow to overflow bottle (just to confirm attached one) Troublehshooting Done: 1) Checked Voltage from Voltage regulator to Input of Temp Gauge Properly stepped down to 10V. 2) Changed all Wires to new wires to remove any possibility of leaks still no luck 3) Changed Temp Sendor to Black Insulated GTR101 still dont work 4) Attached earth to Temp Sensor on Block to ensure good earth for Temp Sensor 5) Did Boiling water test and cant say its very conclusive cos it goes to H when Boiling and C when in Ice.. so cant really tell. My Mechanic (20 yrs doing minis) did every test he knew and proved there is no oevr heating at all.. so confirm Meter is over reading. He says he seens this many times with Smith Magnolia gauges and asked me to revert back to my Black Smiths Gauge which I did and same results. Can anyone tell me how can I fix this ? Did we miss something? I hate the resistor solution but if no choice how can i do this @ select the right resistor? Anyone got the ressitor vs Temp range? Chandran...!
Posted: Apr 22, 2013 04:05 AM
Mk1minbox
1 posts
Joined: 04/11/2016 19:29:32
Location: Watford United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Temp gauge reading high
Hello all
I hope you can help, my newly purchased Smith Temp gauge is over reading and after troubleshooting everything I am lost of actions except to install a inline Resistor which I really hate to do... here is the scenario: 1) Smith Temp Gauge is connected to GTR104 Temp Sender (red insulator top) 2) Temp gauge is also connected to Voltage regulator on Smiths Magnolia Speedo 3) Earthing connected to known Good Source on Body 4) Radiator doesnt boil over even when filled with water but Temp reading is at H after 5 mins of running or Idle, slowly creeps to H within 5 mins. 5) When on road at Speed, needle slightly moves down from H 6) Thermostat fitted 85c and tested fine 7) Fitted Electric Fan with Temp Sensor 90c does not come on until like 1 hour of driving 8) Water pump tested Fine 9) Radiator pressure tested with new Cap 16psi, all fine 10) no overflow to overflow bottle (just to confirm attached one) Troublehshooting Done: 1) Checked Voltage from Voltage regulator to Input of Temp Gauge Properly stepped down to 10V. 2) Changed all Wires to new wires to remove any possibility of leaks still no luck 3) Changed Temp Sendor to Black Insulated GTR101 still dont work 4) Attached earth to Temp Sensor on Block to ensure good earth for Temp Sensor 5) Did Boiling water test and cant say its very conclusive cos it goes to H when Boiling and C when in Ice.. so cant really tell. My Mechanic (20 yrs doing minis) did every test he knew and proved there is no oevr heating at all.. so confirm Meter is over reading. He says he seens this many times with Smith Magnolia gauges and asked me to revert back to my Black Smiths Gauge which I did and same results
Posted: Nov 04, 2016 07:38 PM
67mini
Joined: 05/10/2004 07:17:08
Location: Christchurch New Zealand
Engine Help
I need help! I have taken th 850 engine out of the mini to get the car painted. Just put everything back together and it wont turn over! The problem apears to be with the starter solenoid. It makes a buzzing type sound when the ignition is turned on. Does anybody have any ideas. Can it have anything to do with the voltage regulator? As this is the only changed part in the car. I am 99% sure all the wiring is hooked back up fine. Any help to get it started would be appreciated Cheers Sam
Posted: Apr 06, 2005 10:49 AM
73-1275gt
Joined: 06/04/2005 23:31:07
Location: Afghanistan
got a 1973 1275 with standard loom and alternator. the dash is walnut 3 dial type out of a 90s cooper. when I turn the lights on the fuel gauge goes right up to full, the temerature goes into the red and the tacho goes out. can anyone help? A clue- I suspect it is to do with the dash lights not working? I have read about voltage regulators but these dials dont appear to have such as are the modern ones with the printed circuit board on the back? have I missed something. Also as I run 10s the speedo and tacho are out by about 10 m,ph and 2-3 k respectively - any suggestions?
Posted: Apr 16, 2005 07:23 PM